Big SurLike most of California's coast, Big Sur is best explored in early spring and late fall, when chances of fog are very low. Summer is the worst time, as the fog is almost a permanent condition.Near Big Sur there are three excellent spots: Pfeiffer State Beach, Partington Cove, and McWay waterfall on the beach (that can be reached from Pfeiffer Park). Big Sur information
Campgrounds:
Note: due to human stupidity, there are two "Pfeiffer" parks. Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park is what most people call "Big Sur". It is south of Monterey and north of Nepenthe. Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is south of Nepenthe and north of Lucia. Make sure which one you are heading for. Restaurants:
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Hiking in Big Sur
Partington Cove, Creek and Canyon This area is located about 20kms south of Big Sur proper, 3 kms north north of the entrance to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. The way to find the trailheads is to look for a sequence of famous milestones along highway 1: Nepenthe, Miller Library, Coast Gallery. After Coast Gallery, there are two major bridges. Then one gets to a curve (that looks like a bridge) with parking areas on both sides of the road and a creek coming down from a canyon. Those are the trailheads (unmarked, like most of the best things in Big Sur). The trailhead to the west of highway 1 (an unmarked iron gate) leads to Partington Cove (the trail actually forks and each fork leads to a separate cove). This is a 15 minute hike. The trailhead to the east of highway 1 is marked only after a few meters "Tanbark trail". This one leads up Partington Canyon, coasting the creek first to the left and then to the right. Eventually very long switchbacks start leading west and east up the canyon. The trail ends into a fire road. Turn left and in a few minutes you reach the "tin house". This is a two hour hike. Contrary to what you may find on other websites, this trail is very well maintained and has absolutely no views of the ocean. On the other hand, the tin house has indeed an impressive view of the coast. Unfortunately, there is no connection with the nearby trails of Julia Pfeiffer park. If you can't resist the temptation and walk up the hill, you end up into private property. So the tin house is really the end of the trail. Returning via the fire road is recommended because the fire road does have the widely advertised ocean views. In fact, it has some of the best ocean views outside of Pt Reyes (on a clear day, of course, which are frequent in early spring but not in the summer). This is a one hour hike down. The catch is that the fire road ends on highway 1, and one has to walk about 2kms (easy 30 minutes) to get back to the trailheads. But this is not necessarily bad news, because the walk along highway 1 is through several postcard-grade viewpoints. Just walk on the ocean side of the highway to increase chances of surviving tourist traffic. Pfeiffer Beach This is one of the prettiest beaches in California, but appropriately difficult to find (despite being a state park). As of 2006, there still was no sign on highway 1 marking the right turn into the narrow winding road that goes to the beach (south of Fernwood and north of Nepenthe). There is only a yellow sign that forbids large vehicles from entering the road. After the ranger station, there is a parking lot. From the parking lot to the beach it is a short hike. The beach has two spectacular sights: the rocky island in front of it (easily climbed after walking a few meters in the water) and the hill to the left (also easily climbed). Further north (if the low tide permits) there are a few more coves that can be reached by just walking along the beach. Ewoldsen trail
This is probably the most rewarding trail in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park,
famous for wildflowers and butterflies. The trail follows the McWay creek to
the top of the hills. The widely advertised ocean views appear only at the top
(7 kms).
The trailhead is off highway 1. One can combine it with the short hike (5 minutes) to McWay Falls (the postcard-grade waterfall on the beach).
Sykes Hot Spring This is one of the most popular hikes in the Bay Area (although in my opinion way overrated, unless you are really into hot springs). The hike is mostly uneventful, and does not afford any of the ocean views that Big Sur is famous for. The main attraction are the hot springs. It can easily be done in a day (in fact, much less than a full day), but people who like this hike (especially romantic couples) like to camp at the hot springs. Drive to Big Sur station (just south of Pfeiffer state park). Pay the parking fee at ranger station. Get the overnight permit (if overnight is planned). Trail description. The trail is not particularly strenous and there is virtually no elevation gain, but the trail goes up and down a number of times and this can take a toll on your muscles and knees. According to the sign at the trailhead (in miles), it should be roughly 16kms one way (although i have done it in 3 hours at my usual average speed of 4km/h, so it is probably more like 12-14 kms). You will know you are halfway when you reach Terrace Creek camp. There are two creek crossings (the second one being Terrace Creek camp). The third creek you encounter (Big Sur River) is your destination. To get to the hot springs, turn left and follow the left bank of the river downstream for about 500 meters. This involves some easy rock climbing but it might take 15 minutes or more. The rock is very slippery. There are three tubs very close to each other (50 meters apart). They are not very big. They are about the size of your bath tub.
Camping is allowed along the river on both sides.
A more accurate timing is at the China Camp to Big Sur page. |
