Hiking Yosemite Half Dome
Notes by piero scaruffi | Yosemite page | California hikes | A HREF=californ.html>Other California destinations
Short notesHalf Dome is a granite dome in Yosemite National Park, one of the most visible landmarks of the Yosemite Valley (the most visited part of the park). It rises 1,444 meters from the floor of the valley, so it is very visible from anywhere in the valley. The elevation of the summit is about 2,700 meters.The trail to the Half Dome of Yosemite National Park via the Mist trail is one of the most celebrated in California. The Mist trail alone is worth the trip because it goes very near two waterfalls. The falls are spectacular in the spring, and chances of getting wet are high, hence "mist" trail (not recommended after june/july because they get far smaller). Beyond the falls, the trail goes through a pine forest and after a series of steep switchbacks reaches the granite summit. First one has to climb what is basically a vertical staircase, and then one is confronted with the "cables": a vertical ascent of 274 meters to the very top of the granite dome that requires arms as much as legs. The top affords some of the best views of Yosemite Valley (although i prefer the view from Clouds Rest).
Roughly, from the trailhead, you walk 15' to the first bridge,
30' to the top of the Vernal Falls,
another 45' to Nevada Falls (a total of 7 kms for the Mist Trail),
then 45' (about 4 kms) to a fork, where you take the left branch and walk
45' to the steps, then 30' on the steps, then 15' on the cables, for a total
to the top of about 4 hours (12-13 kms).
The total elevation gain is 1,463 meters in a relatively short time, which makes it one of the steepest trails in California (like just about any trail that starts from the Yosemite Valley). Half Dome is not as high as the high sierras, but the elevation gain is so sudden that many people suffer from altitude even at 2,700 meters, especially those who camp in the valley. (It is wise to camp at higher elevation on Tioga Rd). Note: the cables are up from mid-May to mid-October. You can hike to the top of Half Dome before mid-May and after mid-October but it will be more like rock climbing than hiking. Detailed descriptionPark near or at Curry Village. Take the shuttle bus and tell the driver to drop you off at the trailhead for Mist Trail/Half Dome (bus stop 16). Cross the bridge, turn right into the dirt road and walk till the end. That's where the hike starts. In a few minutes you will reach a bridge and the last drinkable water. At the fork, go left if you want to do the Mist Trail. The Muir trail is a much longer alternative when hiking up. Through steep steps, you get to Vernal Falls in a few minutes. When you are at the top of these falls, the trail will go down for a few meters and you will be right at the top of the waterfalls. Ask around if you lost the trail. The trail goes upriver following the creek for about 0.5 kms, then it turns left and crosses the creek over a bridge (if lost, just look for the only bridge on the creek). Then the trail starts climbing vertical to Nevada Falls. It takes a while to get there. If you want to see Nevada Falls, you have to turn right (there's a sign). It's a little detour. Then go back to the main trail. If you don't want to see them (advice: see them on the way back), keep going straight. The trail will eventually flatten out and you will be following a creek. On your left handside you will start seeing Half Dome. Passed the campground, the trail starts climbing again among thicker vegetation. It gets steeper and steeper. Eventually you reach the John Muir fork. Bear left otherwise you end up in the middle of nowhere. The switchbacks continue till your right hand-side has a gorgeous view of Yosemite park. At that point you are about to reach the steps. Eventually you get to a scary sign about storms on Half Dome and, if there are no clouds, proceed to the terrifying steps. When you're done with the steps and with a slippery stretch, you'll have the back of Half Dome in front of you and you'll soon make out the people pulling themselves up the cables. Walk down a little bit and then you find yourself at the base of the Half Dome. Pick a pair of gloves and start pulling yourself up the cables. You will be panting because of altitude. Take it easy. It is not very long, but it takes a while. When you are at the end of the cables, bear right to get to the very top (on the way back walk backwards down the cables). The trail is very trafficked so you can always ask people for directions.If you have some light garden gloves, you may want to bring them, so you don't have to rely on the ones provided by the park. A windbreaker or light jacket is often essential at the top. |
Pictures of the hike
 Trail map If you belong to the "REI generation" who invades Half Dome (and Mt Whitney) every summer, i have bad news for you: Half Dome is neither the highest, nor the steepest, nor the most breathtaking place in Yosemite Valley. The steepest trail is the one from Mirror Lake to Snowcreek Falls. The most impressive view is either the one from Glacier Point (you can drive up there) or the one from Clouds Rest (basically, views that include Half Dome). Note of 2007: this trail has become maddeningly popular, even with elderly people, children and (alas) fat people. It is not unusual that there is literally a line to get on the cables, because many people are very slow on the cables and, needless to say, it is difficult to pass them on a vertical slope. Thus it is recommended that you don't pick a weekend day, or that you start as early as possible (starting at 6am is already too late to beat the crowds). If you are fast enough to get to the cables before 8am, you won't have any crowds to fight with. I have rarely seen such dumb, slow, unprepared hikers as on the Half Dome trail anywhere else in California (or, for that matter, in the world). Hikers have died trying to pass outside the cables, for example in june 2007 (but i blame the slow people on the cables more than the ones who died). The crowds completely ruin the magic of the place. They are so clueless that they hike up Half Dome even when Yosemite Valley is already dry (usually july), i.e. when no waterfalls are to be seen anymore from the top (See a suggested calendar). Not sure what is there to be proud of that you stayed in line with thousands of people. You are much better off hiking up Clouds' Rest, that, being 300 meters higher, affords better views (including a great view of Half Dome itself) and gets only a handful of visitors per hour. Hike milestones
If you go up the Mist Trail and down the John Muir trail (longer but less steep), the total distance is about 25 kms roundtrip.
My best time ever from the Happy Isles trailhead (2005): 34' to the top of the
first waterfall, 23' to the top of the second waterfall (junction with the
John Muir trail), 20' to the beginning of the switchbacks (end of Little
Yosemite Valley), 1 hours to the beginning of the steps, 2h 46' to the top.
(My friend Peter was 3' faster).
Checklist (besides the usual equipment for hiking):
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