Kings Canyon and the Muir Wilderness allow at least three relatively easy ways to
cross the Sierras (east to west or viceversa) on a one-day hike:
- From Edison Lake to Mosquito Flat (done in 2006)
- From Roads End to Onion Valley (done in 2004)
- From Lake Florence to North Lake
- From Mammoth trailhead to the Mammoth Lakes area
1. From Edison Lake to Mosquito Flat
(first done in august 2006)
Group A hikes from Lake Edison to Mosquito Flat.
Group B hikes from Mosquito Flat to Lake Edison.
Directions for the western trailhead (Lake Edison, Group A). It takes about 5 hours from the Bay Area to Lake Edison. Take 101 south, 152 east (exit 356 in Gilroy), 99 south,
Herndon east, 168 east to Shaver Lake, Huntington Lake, Kaiser Pass. After Kaiser Pass the road becomes narrow and goes down into a valley. After about 30 kms, one reaches Edison Lake. There is a resort and campground by the lake (vermilion Valley Resort, 559 259-4000). The resort runs the boat that crosses the lake (from the resort to the eastern shore) at 4pm, returning at 4:45pm. There are bear lockers on the eastern shore.
Directions for the eastern trailhead (Mosquito Flat, Group B). It takes about 7 hours from the Bay Area to Mosquito Flat. Drive through Yosemite on 120 east. Drive south on 395 past Mammoth Lakes and Crowley Lake and turn right to go to Tom's Place (45' from Mono Lake to Tom's Place). At the exit follow the sign "sno-park". You will pass: French camp, Holiday camp, Aspen camp, Big Meadows camp, Palisades, East Fork, Pine Grove, Rock Creek and the Pack Station. Then the road narrows. The first parking lot is the overflow parking lot. Proceed to the end of the paved road at the Mosquito Flat parking lot (15'). Ideally, park at the very end of this parking lot, which is the trailhead. There are bear lockers. After the restrooms, a bridge connects to the hikers' campground (in theory, you need a wilderness permit to camp here, even if you are going for a day hike only).
Mosquito Flat is marked MOSFLT in this map
Plan:
Group A reaches Lake Edison by saturday 4pm, parks the car at the resort, catches the last boat to the eastern shore at 4pm, camps near the landing, wakes up 4-5am, folds tents and sleeping bags, leaves them at the landing, starts hiking at 5am.
Group B reaches the Mosquito Flat trailhead at whatever time on saturday, camps at the trailhead, wakes up 4am, folds tents and sleeping bacgs, leaves them in the car, starts hiking at 4am, reaches Lake Edison before 4:45pm, picks up Group A's tent and sleeping bags, catches the boat to the resort at 4:45pm. Have $9 with you to pay for the boat.
Somewhere in the middle of nowhere the two groups meet and exchange car keys.
Both groups: take your wallets with you because you have to drive the other group's car and you have to pay for the boat ride.
Trail (west to east):
The trail from Edison Lake mostly parallels the Mono Creek west to east.
It briefly follows the John Muir trail northeast (uphill). At the Silver Pass junction, take the Mono Pass direction (east). Now the trail goes downhill, in
order to rejoin the Mono Creek. The hike is relatively uneventful through the
junctions with the Second Recess trail, Laurent Creek, Hopkins Creek. After
five creek crossings (in a very short time) and steep switchbacks that pass the Pioneer Basin junction, the trail finally
crosses the Mono Creek and turns sharply right (south). Steep switchbacks
lead to a meadow with the first glimpse of Mono Pass. After passing two
lakes (one has restrooms), the trail climbs again and, past a plateau with
great views of the Mono Creek valley, becomes very sandy (above the tree line).
After a false summit (the saddle that was visible from the lakes), the trail
proceeds south towards Summit Lake and then Mono Pass itself (likely to have
snow even in summer, but just walk higher than the snow on the right handside).
Mt Starr is on the left handside.
Steep switchbacks lead downhill towards the Little Lakes Valley. The first
lake is Ruby Lake, followed by a series of smaller lakes. Eventually the
trail ends in the valley and heads
east to the trailhead of Mosquito Flat (a parking lot and a campsite).
The total hiking distance is 29 kms from the eastern edge of Edison Lake.
It shouldn't take more than 10 hours of hiking (not including stops) at a brisk
pace.
If Group B also has to hike from Vermilion Resort (559 259-4000) to the eastern edge of the lake (or viceversa) because you missed the boat, it's an additional 8kms (some two hours). If you start hiking at 4am, you should finish the hike comfortably before 4:45pm and
catch the boat no problem.
In 2006 the GPS gave these data at the end of the hike:
Distance 30.87 km.
Average moving speed: 4.3 km/h.
Elevation gain: 1665 meters.
Elevation loss: 885 meters.
As long as they don't miss the boat at 4:45pm (which reaches the parking lot
around 5:30pm), Group B will be home before midnight.
Hike's milestones, west to east (and 2006 times):
- From eastern shore of Edison Lake (2300m) to John Muir trail (Selden junction): 2.5kms (30')
- From Muir trail (2350m) to Mono Creek trail (Silver Pass junction): 2.5kms (1h 10')
- Second Recess Trail (2h34')
- From Mono Creek trail (2500m) to Laurel Creek trail junction: 6.5kms (2h50')
- Meadow (3h30')
- From Laurel Creek trail junction (2600m) to Hopkins trail junction: 4kms (3h45')
- From Hopkins trail junction (2800m) to Pioneer Basin Lakes and Fourth Recess Lake junctions: 3.5kms
- Five creek crossings
- Pioneer Basin junction (4h30')
- From these junctions (3000m) to Mono Pass: 5kms
- Crossing Mono Creek to the southern side (5h)
- Two lakes (5h45')
- Saddle/false summit (6h)
- Summit lake (6h15')
- Mono Pass (6h30')
- From Mono Pass (3650m) to Ruby Lake (3350m): 2.5kms (7h)
- From Ruby Lake (3350m) to Lakes Valley/Morgan Pass fork: 2kms (8h)
- From Lakes Valley fork to Mosquito Flat parking lot (3148m): 1km (8h30')
- Total: 29.5 kms
Hikers' enemies: you cannot camp legally at Mosquito Flat unless you
have a wilderness permit. You get a wilderness permit if you go to a ranger
station and claim that you will spend two days in the wilderness (one day is
not enough). But the price you pay is a third degree about where/what/how
you will go. And they may ask to see your bear canister and who knows what else.
Links:
2. From Roads End to Onion Valley
(first done in 2004)
The trail from Roads End parallels Bubbs Creek until it intersects the Pacific Crest trail (22kms). It is flat for the first hour, then, after the four bridges, it winds up steeply towards the Sphinx Trail junction. Continue east (towards Vidette Meadow). The trail is then mostly flat through lush vegetation (lots of
mosquitoes). A new section of steep switchbacks take to the junction with
the John Muir trail. Turn left (north) for 2kms. Then turn right towards the Kearsarge Lakes (4kms). Do not take the north direction towards Charlotte Lake even if the sign says "Kearsarge Pass" (it's longer and you would miss the lakes).
The trail becomes flat again and borders Bullfrog Lakes and the Kearsarge Lakes.
Then it climbs to the Pass (the pass is the V-shaped hole above the last of the lakes). This is probably the steepest stretch of the hike, but not very long.
From Kearsarge Pass there are amazing views on both sides.
From Kearsarge Pass to the parking lot of Onion Valley is very steep downhill.
There are more lakes going down (at least four).
The grand total is 36kms.
2004 time:
- Roads End (1534m) to Sphinx Creek junction (1914m): 6.5 kms, 1.5 hours
- Sphinx Creek junction (1914m) to Charlotte Creek campground (4.5 hours) to East Creek junction (2490m): 10.9kms, 5 hours
- East Creek junction (2490m) to PCT junction, i.e. Vidette Meadow (2900m): 4.7kms, 6 hours 15'
- PCT junction (2900m) to Charlotte Lake junction (3218m): 2.4kms, 7 hours 15'
- Charlotte Lake junction (3218m) to Kearsarge Lakes (8 hours) to Kearsarge Pass (3610m): 3.9kms, 8 hours 45'
- Kearsarge Pass (3610m) to Onion Valley campground (2800m): 7.6kms, 11 hours
Total: 36.5 kms, 11 hours
West to east is mostly downhill, so even faster.
Pictures of this hike
Directions for the eastern trailhead for the Bay Area.
Take 101 south, 152 east lo Los Banos (about 1 hr 30') to 99 (about 2hr),
99 south to Fresno (about 300 kms, 2h 30').
In Fresno, take 180 east and follow it (the freeway is not completed yet,
it will go through town and then turn left into Kings Canyon Ave)
to the Big Stump park entrance (85 kms, 1h 15')
to the fork with Sequoia Park (5') to Grant Grove village (3kms, visitor center,
restaurant, water, restrooms, market)
to Cedar Grove (50 winding kms, 50', via Kings Canyon Lodge 20', Boyden Cavern 30', Kings Canyon border 40') and then (10 kms) Roads End.
Cheap gas in Fresno: Arco on Kings Canyon Ave, or the gas stations on Clinton Ave & Weber. Cheap lodging: Belmont Ave exit of 99.
Directions for the western trailhead. Drive through Yosemite on 120 east. Drive south on 395 to Independence. TUrn right towards Onion Valley and drive to the end of the road (the campground).
Camgrounds: Canyon View ($18 in 2004), Moraine (ditto), Sentinel (ditto) are all in the Cedar Grove area. They are all at 1400m of altitude.
The National Forest (free camping) is just before Cedar Grove.
3. From Lake Florence to North Lake
(first done in 2007)
Group A hikes from Lake Florence to North Lake.
Group B hikes from North Lake to Lake Florence.
Directions for the western trailhead (Lake Florence, Group A). It takes at least 5 hours from the Bay Area to Lake Florence. Take 101 south, 152 east, 99 south. Before Fresno, take the Herndon exit and find Herndon East (not terribly obvious, turn left at the traffic light over the railway tracks). Keep driving east (many traffic lights). Eventually you will see a sign for 168 east. Continue on 168 east (uphill) passing Shaver Lake and bypassing Huntington Lake. The road summits at Kaiser Pass. After Kaiser Pass the road becomes narrow and goes down into a valley. After about 18 kms from Kaiser Pass one passes the Bolsillo campground and Forest Office and after 2kms one reaches a fork: Florence Lake to the right, Lake Edison to the left. The branch that goes to Florence Lake is about 9 kms (Ward Lake is half way between this fork and Florence Lake).
There is a store and a campground by the lake. The store runs the ferry that crosses the lake (from the store to the eastern shore) five times a day, from 9am till 5pm.
Group A can start hiking very early only if it takes the ferry the day before at 4:30pm, and camps on the eastern side of the lake. Before starting the hike, Group A can pack tent/sleepingbags and leave them at the landing.
Directions for the eastern trailhead (North Lake, Group B)..
North Lake is located off 168 west of Bishop, about 1.5hours driving time south of Mono Lake, i.e. 6/7 hours from the Bay Area.
From Bishop, take 168 west, aka West Line St, almost to the end.
The road passes Aspendell after 20'. Slow down and turn right into the dirt road
that goes to North Lake (if you get to Lake Sabrina you went too far on 168).
When you turn right for North Lake, follow the road with the 15MPH sign
(the other one is usually closed). The road is narrow and unpaved for
a few kms. The (very small) campground and the trailhead are located past the
lake: the moment you pass the lake to your right, you get to a fork for either the campground and trailhead (left) or hikers' parking (right). Only campers are allowed to camp at the trailhead. If you are not camping, then you should use the hikers' parking lot and walk an extra km to the trailhead. There are two trailheads at the North Lake campground: take the one for Piute Pass. (Note: the only way to legally park a car at the trailhead the whole day is to pay a campsite
for two nights, and it is expensive at $19 in 2008).
Group B: don't forget that you need to take your wallet (driver license and all) with at least $10 (in 2007) with you to pay for the ferry. Group B: make sure you reach Lake Florence by 5pm (last ferry). If group B is large enough, they can call the ferry even after 5pm and the ferry will most likely come. Group B: make sure you pick up Group A's tent/sleepingbags before boarding the ferry.
Warnings:
- Mosquitoes from beginning to end
- Lots of small creeks to cross (especially before august)
Trail (west to east):
- From Florence Lake (2311m) to Muir Trail Ranch (2372m): 8kms
(the most confusing part is the very beginning, because both a "road" and a poorly-marked trail lead to the Muir Ranch and they intersect several times: after the gate, they want you to stay on the higher of the two)
- From Muir Trail Ranch to the John Muir trail (2421m): 2kms
- From John Muir trail to Piute trail junction (2453m): 3kms
- From Piute trail junction to Piute Creek Pass junction (2892m): 10kms
- From Piute Creek Pass junction to Piute Lake to Piute Pass (3481m, highest point): 12kms
- From Piute Pass to North Lake campground (2848m): 8kms
- Total: 43 kms
Hiking west to east is mostly uphill. Hiking east to west is
uphill only for a couple of hours, then mostly downhill.
The eastern trailhead is 500 meters higher than the western trailhead.
The most scenic section is between the John Muir Trail and Piute Pass.
If hiking east to west, and arriving after dark, it might be tricky to follow
the last km of trail to the exact location of the landing (N37.24962 W118.94091).
The western driving route is by far the most complex, so here are
driving times to Florence Lake:
- 101&85: start on 101 south
- 101&152 east (Gilroy): 26' (take 152 east)
- Casa de Fruta: 20'
- 152&5: 25'
- Los Banos: 15'
- 152&99: 25' (take 99 south)
- Madera: 10'
- (Note: gas station Arco, Avenue 12 exit, you are advised to fill up here)
- Herndon Ave exit: 10' (go east on Herndon Ave)
- Herndon&41: 15'
- Herndon & 168east (Clovis): 5' (take 168 east)
- 168 & Fryant: 20'
- Prather: 5'
- Lodge Rd (stop sign): 5' (turn left at the stop sign)
- One lane road: 7'
- Shaver Village: 13' (you are advised to eat here)
- Kaiser Pass Rd (turn right, last gas station on left, ranger station with phone on right)
- Kaiser Pass: 16'
- Ranger station: 24'
- Edison-Florence fork: 5'
- Ward Lake: 15'
- Lake Florence: 15'
Note that traffic between Kaiser Pass and Florence Lake can be a nightmare
because it's a one-lane road and every SUV met on the road
can imply a 5-minute stop.
Hiking time (2007):
- Lake Florence landing: start
- Fork to Lake Florence landing: 13' (trail and road intersect a few times, try to stay on the trail after this sign)
- Creek crossing: 1h
- Gate and "no trenspassing sign": 1h10' (go straight through gate)
- Fork to Kings Canyon (first Selden Pass fork): 1h15' (go straight)
- Creek crossing: 1h39'
- Gate: 1h47' (stay to the left of the gate, don't go through it)
- Creek crossing: 1h 49' (if you stayed on the trail, all three creek crossings have a board that serves as a bridge)
- Tiny creek crossing and sharp left turn uphill: 1h 50'
- Gate announcing the end of private property: 2h
- Blayney hot springs turnoff: 2h 2'
- Second Selden Pass sign: 2h 8' (take the Piute Pass direction)
- Little camp by the Joaquin river: 2h30'
- Third Selden Pass sign (John Muir Trail): 2h 45'
- Piute trail junction near bridge over the Piute Creek (2453m) (the trail begins ascending steep switchbacks): 3h30'
- Viewpoint and downhill: 4h 15'
- Small creek crossing: 4h 23'
- The trail turns sharply east: 4h 30'
- Small camp and downhill: 4h 40'
- West Pinnacles Creek crossing: 4h 45'
- Rapids by the trail: 5h
- Gate: 5h 1' (Pilot Knob becomes very visible, marking the direction of the trail)
- Flower parade: 5h 15'
- East Pinnacles Creek crossing: 5h50' (cross on logs)
- Hutchinson Meadow: 6h15'
- Junction with the trail to Piute Creek Pass: 6h25' (go straight)
- Quintuple creek crossing: 6h35'
- Gate: 7h
- 10,000 Ft Sign: 7h19' (steeper ascent)
- Same longitude as Great Trout Lake: 8h15'
- Creek crossing and sharp curve to south: 9h
- Summit lake: 10h
- Piute Pass: 10h10' (don't miss the left turn to the Pass, as the trail continues straight south)
- First basin: 10h20'
- Lake Leven: 11h15'
- Double creek crossing (both with rudimentary bridges): 12h
- Muir Wilderness sign: 12h8'
- Lamarck Lakes fork: 12h20'
- North Lake trailhead: 12h22'
4. From Mammoth trailhead to the Mammoth Lakes area
It is possible to hike from the "Mammoth" trailhead northeast of Oakhurst
to the Devil's Postpile area south of Mono Lake.
Driving directions from the Bay Area: take 580 east and then highway 99 south to Merced and then take 140 to Mariposa/Yosemite and then in Mariposa take 49 east to Oakhurst (a Yosemite visitor center, across the highway from the Shilo Inn).
From Oakhurst take 41 north.
Five kms north of Oakhurst turn right into Bass Lake Rd and
5 kms later turn left on 274 and then left again on Beasore Road and continue straight for about 80 kms until the Clover Meadow Ranger Station.
From the ranger station to the dead end is about 10kms of unpaved road (you'll pass Soldier Meadow and Indian Meadow).
- At the end of the road there are four trailheads. The first and the second (clockwise) are sandy 4WD roads. The fourth one goes south.
- Take the pack trail that goes east (the third rail counting from clockwise).
- It initially heads northeast, crosses a little creek and then heads straight north for a little while.
- After crossing the San Joaquin River, it bends south and intersects another trail coming from south.
- Turn left (northeast) towards Snake Meadow.
- At Snake Meadow there is another fork. Ignore the trail that goes north (left) and urn right (east) towards Corral Meadow
- At Corral Meadow two more trails appear, one coming from west and one from north. Ignore both and continue right (east) towards Cargyle Meadow.
- After Cargyle Meadow the trail bends left (north) towards the Granite Stairway and Summit Meadow.
- At Summit Meadow the trail intersects a trail coming from northwest. Continue straight east.
- After crossing the King Snow Creek, the trail heads northeast, intersects the John Muir Trail and enters the Devil Postpile Monument area (lots of trails).
A trail also goes from Granite Creek (1km after the Clover Meadow Ranger Station) to Isberg Pass (21km) in the Ansel Adams Wilderness. But to reach the Mammoth Lakes one would have to climb the Mt Ritter Range.
|
