The Palisades region of the Sierra Nevada is located west of the town of Big Pine. It includes some of the highest mountains in California, including the Middle Palisade (4271m).

The main approach to Middle Palisade is via Big Pine's "south fork".

Directions from the Bay Area: take 580 east and then 120 east through Yosemite (follow signs for Tioga Rd and Tioga Pass). In Lee Vining (end of 120 east, Mono Lake in front of you), turn south (right) into hwy 395 to Big Pine (130 kms, about one hour). The total distance from the Bay Area is about 500 kms and should take about 5 hours (plus stops). In Big Pine, take the only road that goes west (right), Glacier Rd. The trailhead parking lot is almost at the end of the road (before Glacier Lodge). There is a campground about 200 meters before the trailhead. At the end of the road there is a parking lot for the Glacier Lodge that can be used also for day hikes. That is the trailhead for the "south fork".

The South Fork trail starts at the Glacier Lodge (2300m) and reaches Willow Lake in 6.5 km at 2900m of elevation. Here to the south one has the first clear view of the Middle Palisade, with Norman Clyde Peak to the right and Disappointment Peak to the left. The trail dead ends at Brainerd Lake but a use trail winds its way up to the west and then south to Finger Lake. Follow the gentle slope above Brainerd Lake between pine trees. Coast Finger Lake to the left (there's a little cliff than can be easily climbed) all the way up to the waterfall. Climb around the waterfall and you find yourself in a basin with a little pond. Coast the pond to the right and enter a wide gully. To your left is a wall of slippery granite that is best avoided. The gully is full of loose scree. After a waterfall that originates underground, turn left and reach the glacier. The glacier is neatly divided by a prominent rib of rocks. Ascend that rib that ends against the Middle Palisade. To the right is a chute of red rocks. Some people ascend the red rocks to reach the main chute that traverse diagonally right to left. It is safer to walk 30 meters on the snow to the left and reach a point where you can haul yourself up. You are below a chute that heads straight up to the top. After a while you intersect the main chute coming from the red rocks.
In 2008 i used the "eastern" chute to the left of this popular "northern" chute. It is a much wider chute (never mentioned in any of the books). Because it is so wide, you can always find a spot to climb up easily, and a series of chimneys to the left helped me to get around the steepest drops. You constantly see a wall at the top. When you get there, it's easy to get on the top. The real summit is the ugly peaklet to your right.

• Bridge: 30'
• Willow Lake: 1h45'
• Brainerd Lake: 2h30'
• Finger Lake: 3h15'
• Pond: 3h45'
• Glacier: 4h45'
• Glacier's rib: 5h45'
• Top of rib: 6h30'
• Summit: 8h

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