NotesEl Capitan can be reached two ways: hiking east from Tamarack Flat, or hiking north and west from Sunnyside/Camp4 (TF to EL or UF to EL in the Yosemite hiking map). The elevation gain is much bigger for the second way, which is also slightly longer.
Camp4/Sunnyside is in the Yosemite valley (the same trail that goes to the Upper Falls). Tamarack Flat is NOT in the Yosemite valley (it's off Tioga Rd). If you hike from one side to the other, you need to leave a car at the end, which is not trivial (it's a 45-minute drive).
Description from Tamarack Flat
From Tioga Rd to the Tamarack Flat Campground is a (very bad) paved road, but the gate is always closed. It is not clear if you are allowed to lift the gate and drive through. It's 5kms to the campground. From the campground to El Capitan the trail is 13.5 kms.
From Tamarack Flat Campground to Cascade Creek is a paved road (closed to vehicles) through lodgepole pines (the "tamaracks") and white firs. Eventually, the road descends steeply (it also intersects the trail coming from Yosemite Valley *) to the Cascade Creek bridge (4.5kms, about 1 hour).
(*: This trailhead is located on 120 about 200 meters west of the Foresta Road junction, just after the three tunnels if you are coming from Yosemite Valley, but that trail is no longer maintained and not marked in the new maps. The parking lot is on the left hand-side if you are coming from the Valley but the trailhead is across the street. This trail is 7kms long, and quite unattractive at the beginning. It goes up and down, crossing several creeks, until it connects with the Tamarack Flat road. Turn right into this road and after 500m turn left. Don't miss the sign pointing uphill for El Capitan. From Tamarack Flat to the top is about 13kms, but from Foresta junction to the top is about 17 kms).
Cross the bridge and continue 800 meters down the old Big Oak Flat Road, but
watch carefully for a sign on your left (the semi-paved road continues
forever). The sign sends you uphill to El Capitan: it is no longer a semi-paved
road, but a real trail. You are 9kms from El Capitan.
Now you can return the same way (it will take you about the same time) or go back via the Upper Falls (faster, but harder on your knees).
If you continue the trail towards the Upper Falls, the hike will be a comfortable walk to Upper Falls through the forest. The trail goes up and down for about 8 kms. The last climb is to get to the Eagle Point fork. After that you will go down to the Upper Falls folk. Then the trail goes down steeply. This is one of the steepest trails in Yosemite and it is a curse on your knees, as most of it is steps.
Trail map from Sunnyside
Sunnyside to Upper Falls to El Capitan
Tamarack Flat to El Capitan to Upper Falls
2001 El Capitan hike
It was June and we were quite annoyed by mosquitoes.
If you want to see Eagle Point on the way to El Capitan, do not trust the sign that says "0.3 miles". That would be 0.5 kms. You'll find out that it is at least one km. And very steep. But you get great views of Nevada Falls and the Glacier Point trail.