If coming up from the George Creek route, they share a plateau. If coming up from Wallace Lake, they only share that lake. Traversing from one to the other is therefore sensible only from the east.

The George Creek (eastern) route is basically the same as for Mt Barnard.

The Wallace Lake route is much more challenging, if nothing else because it requires climbing the elusive Vacation Pass. You start from Whitney Portal and follow the route to the base of Mt Morgenson via Whitney's Mountaineering route and the Carillon-Cleaver Pass (aka "Suicide Pass"). These two sections are challenging enough: the Mountaineering route includes some scary ledges and, after the first Boyscout Lake, it's increasingly steep and unmarked to Suicide Pass.

From the Carillon-Cleaver Pass, descend left to the southwestern tip of Lake Tulainyo. Don't descend directly to the shore of the lake, which has brutal scree and boulders. Follow an imaginary straight line towards the left corner of the lake. Once you are there, start gaining a bit of elevation and circle Tulainyo Lake to the left. Staying higher allows you to avoid the snow patches and to take a short cut around the base of Mt Russell, but no need to go much higher than the snow patches. This leads you to a vast plateau that descends gently towards Wales Lake. Mountains along the way include: Mt Tunnabora (4135m), which lies to the right of Tulainyo Lake, Mt Russell (4294m), which lies to your left, Mt Morgenson (4245m), a little further down from Mt Russell, and Mt Barnard (4264m) further down to the right of Morgenson. Stay to the left for best terrain, then follow the creek that dives into Wallace Lake. There are two ways to get down to Wallace Lake. If you simply follow the creek, you will downclimb class-2 boulders. This is the favorite way down. If you continue coasting the edge of the plateau, you will get to a green chute that descends more gently and on softer terrain. The chute continues all the way to Wales Lake but about halfway you can turn right towards Wallace Lake via a vast slope. This is the favorite way up, and it also allows you to enjoy views of Wales Lake and Mt Hale.

Stay to the right of Wallace Lake until you reach the beaches. From a distance it is obvious what is "not" Vacation Pass: all the sub-peaks of Mt Heller. There are several chutes coming down from the plateau of Vacation Pass. Unfortunately, none of them seem to come straight down/up to/from the lake. The friendly one at the top is the rightmost chute, but it starts about halfway. If you are going up, pick any reasonable chute and converge left or right towards this "main" chute. If you are coming down, start from this main chute (which is quite broad at the top) and then switch chutes as you encounter obstacles. This is mostly class 2 but you'll learn the meaning of the word "endless".

You'll know when you reach the pass because the steep climb ends and you are walking through a vast inclined plateau. You can't miss East Barnard: just walk up ( you can't see the summit until you are almost there). It's a long class-1 and class-2 scramble.

When you are on the summit block, the summit is all the way to the left/west.

• Whitney Portal
• First lake 1h30'
• Small plateau 2h30'
• Big plateau 3h30'
• Chute 4h30'
• Suicide Pass (4000m) 5h15'
• Lake Tulainyo (3908m) 5h30'
• Wallace Lake 7h
• Base of the chute 7h30'
• Vacation Pass (3913 m) 8h15'
• Summit (4183 m) 10h